Flexicom 30sx G.C. 41-047-76 18sx G.C. 2 Guarantee Registration Thank you for installing a new Glow-worm appliance in your home. Glow-worm appliances are manufactured to the very highest standard so we are pleased to offer. Manual Handling 17 62 Declaration of Conformity 18 63 INTRODUCTION INSTALLATION. Authorised by Glow-worm. If a part is required contact Glow-worm’s own service organisation using the telephone number on the inside front cover of this booklet. Please quote the name of the appliance, this infomation will be on the name badge on the front of the appliance. If in doubt seek advice from the local gas company or Glow. Boiler Manuals and Literature Downloads. All of Glow-worm's boiler and control product literature, collected together in one place. Search for, view and download installation and service manuals for any one of our award-winning domestic boiler and heating control products. Take a look at our Glowworm Flexicom 30CX instllation and user guide manuals right here at Plumbase. Glowworm Flexicom 30CX Manuals. GLOW WORM D.H. Glowworm 30CXI Manual. GLOW WORM 801843 DOOR SEAL 1764MM 24CXI 30CXI View Details. GLOW WORM SIPHON ADAPTOR WAS 801624 View Details. GLOW WORM 801655 ZIG IGNITOR 24CXI 30CXI View Details. Fan Assembly 801645 View Details. GLOW WORM 802153 CAP.REPS. 205872 & 212205.
Got an f1 fault on a Glow Worm boiler then here is what Martin has to say an emergency plumber Bury. First of all we will give some questions customer are asking below then we will give you the answers.
Glow Worm Flexicom 30cx Troubleshooting
- Glow-worm Ultracom 30cxi Manuals & User Guides. User Manuals, Guides and Specifications for your Glow-worm Ultracom 30cxi Boiler. Database contains 7 Glow-worm Ultracom 30cxi Manuals (available for free online viewing or downloading in PDF): Installation and servicing, Instructions for use installation and servicing, User manual manual.
- Glow-worm Flexicom 30cx Pdf User Manuals. View online or download Glow-worm Flexicom 30cx Installation And Servicing Manual, Installation And Servicing, Instructions For Use Manual.
Here is what some customer has to say. “My boiler is showing F1 Fault, I am not sure If this is my gas meter or the pressure but when looking up the fault it is coming up with a faulty ignition”. Here is another question we have had from another customer. “My Glow Worm boiler seems to be more so in the winter, when I use my boiler it comes up with a f1 fault but unsure what this means, it seems to happen about 5 times in the winter but this winter it comes up with this about 6 time and we are only just in November”.
As in most cases, the F1 fault is the ignition switch, which may be fixed by pressing the reset on the reset button. If you are unsure where the reset button then look it up in the manual as different model may have a reset button in different locations. In some cases you may find if you are on a payment meter then it is a good idea to check you have gas.
If you are still getting a fault then your most likely going to need a gas safe registered engineer rather than an emergency plumber where ever your from the Bury are or anywhere else in the UK. You can give Martin a call on 07510814311.
Other reason for a F1 Fault on a Glow Worm boiler
When getting a gas engineer out, the first thing you may want to get is a list of problem as some gas engineer just don’t have a clue and will seek advice from the fault finding books. Other problems could be; the gas may need Purging, the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) has possibly gone. If you are lucky there may also be a loose wire, which may need tightening up.
How much would it cost to get a F1 Fault fixed?
To get an F1 fixed in most cases will cost the minimum of 1 hours labour but if it’s not a simple problem then may need a diagnoses check which should also be done within the hour. If you require a new ignition then the cost of the part should come to an estimated £20. If it is found to be the PCB then you would be looking to pay out about £90 to £300 depending on which PCB model you require. The average PCB should cost about £120 but does not include any additional costs of the Fault Finding, engineers fee and the labour costs to fit the PCB. If requiring a new PCB you would expect to pay from the fault finding to the completion of the job on average £320 due to the PCB and the time it takes in the whole process.
Should I have anything else to worry about?
As gas engineers like to do the best and hopefully fix the problem them is always an element of worry. As there is work being done on the boiler, until the PCB is fixed you may not find any further problem and come with warning. Why did the PCB go in the first place, is there a leak or a loose wire causing the boiler to short circuit, if the boiler is have lots of problem then it may be time to upgrade the boiler but firstly when the engineer is doing the diagnosis it is always a good idea to ask him what he think and is it time to replace the boiler. In some case if you don’t like immediate shocks then it may be a good idea to take protection out on the boiler, which may cost you about £17 per month depending on which company you take the protection out with.
If you are experiencing any boiler faults, the only diagnosis you can do when checking out a F1 fault on a Glow Worm boiler is check the reset or make sure you have gas, any other fault you will need the expertise of a gas safe register or you may be breaking the law. Please call Martin on 07510814311 who will get an engineer straight out to you and make sure you get the best service you require where ever you live in the UK.
Click here for any other Glow Worm Boiler Fault Codes.
Comments
Glow Worm Flexicom 30cx Reset
- #2I have the same boiler. I don't know if you can reduce the pressure - do you still have your manual? If not i will dig mine out and have a look.
Make sure you tightened the blue knob back up again. - #3Only thing I can think of is to open the bleed valve on a radiator whilst the boiler is running, and let some of the water out, thus reducing the pressure. I could be totally wrong though.
Look out for either 'the chimp' or 'seacam' on these boards as both are extremely knowledgeable at stuff like this. - #4Only thing I can think of is to open the bleed valve on a radiator .
That'll do it ... I had to do it for a friend who did the same thing. Boiler does not need to be running, though, since the system is pressurised all the time.
EDIT: To be clear, you are not depressurising the boiler but the whole system. It's just that the boiler has the indicator to tell you what the pressure of the system is. - #5Ive tried bleeding the system, pressure drops while im in the process but the it rises again once i seal it all off. Tried depressurising just the boiler as per instruction manual, isolating heating flow and return then turn the valve at the back. Same result pressure goes back up once closed. Simple job has turned in to head scratcher.
- #6If you've overpressurised a combi-boiler I think it re-pressurises itself. I once turned the knob on mine to up the pressure a bit, and forgot to close it again. For 2 days. :eek: I think the pressure thing was around the 3 mark. The whole system started making a groaning noise and water pouring out of the overflow pipe that leads outside.
When I finally had the wit to realise I had the knob turned the wrong way, I shut it, and the system pressure levelled out after a while (and a bit more water pouring out of the pipe).
I agree with bleeding the radiators though as well! - #7Ive tried bleeding the system, pressure drops while im in the process but the it rises again once i seal it all off. Tried depressurising just the boiler as per instruction manual, isolating heating flow and return then turn the valve at the back. Same result pressure goes back up once closed. Simple job has turned in to head scratcher.
Are you sure you have the knob closed and it's not still open? This is exactly what happened to me, I spent 2 days bleeding radiators till I realised. - #8Are you sure you have the knob closed and it's not still open? This is exactly what happened to me, I spent 2 days bleeding radiators till I realised.
I agree - sounds as though the valve may have jammed in the open position. - #9Hello robbarf7,
What is the preasure reading at now? - #10Pressure has steadied out at 3.1 my partner says it has been there before bout 12 months ago, had an engineer out and all has been fine until now. Engineer didnt replace anything just reduced the pressure to normal.
- #11Pressure has steadied out at 3.1 my partner says it has been there before bout 12 months ago, had an engineer out and all has been fine until now. Engineer didnt replace anything just reduced the pressure to normal.
3.1 is to high, it does sound to me either you are turning the wrong valve off or it's faulty.
Your could also have a faulty gauge, no matter, best way to de-pressurize is to go to a rad , if flat, furthest away, if house, ground floor for both examples below.
Make sure CH is off, turn off mains water and use drain **** if fitted, shallow bowl under drain off or hose, couple of mug fulls only, tighten ****, turn mains back on and bleed rads as required, watch pressure gauge after every rad bleed.
Or if no drain ****, turn both rad valves off 1 rad, making sure you note how many turns this takes per valve so you can return to those positions.
Undo the large nut, either valve would do but best not TRV side, drain some water in to shallow bowl, couple of mug fulls, no more for now, tighten rad nut, return valves to position, bleed all rads as required, keep an eye on gauge, 1.5 bar is about right.
Repeat process if still to high, one mug full at a time. - #12Would like to say thanks to you all. Problem solved. Pressurising tap was in the full open position. Must have got confused with it being up side down, clockwise to close :-). And depressurised like a charm at the rads.
- #13Would like to say thanks to you all. Problem solved. Pressurising tap was in the full open position. Must have got confused with it being up side down, clockwise to close :-). And depressurised like a charm at the rads.
Glad you've sorted it out! - #14Good to hear that you've got it sorted robbarf7 - nothing worse than a poorly heating system at this time of year.
Comments are closed.